So now we're in the lovely Graefekiez at a (someway pricey) outdoor café. Chocolate cake (at only two euros per slice, probably the cheapest option on the menu) is on its way.
Speaking of prices -- there was another leg of our travels I forgot to mention in the previous post. On our way out of France and into Berlin, we spent a long afternoon in Geneva, Switzerland. I was very much looking forward to Geneva. We left our luggage in a locker in the train station (one very large locker for 8 Swiss francs). The scenery is beautiful -- it is situated right alongside the Alps, after all. And the lake has a very nice-looking harbor. As expected, it was a little windy along the waterfront. Eating lunch on a bench viewing the lake reminded me of summer afternoons in Charlevoix. We walked around the whole of downtown, plowing through the banking district and stopping for churches, statues and parks. Great shopping, of course -- not that I went into more than one shop. It was probably a good thing because Geneva is an incredibly expensive city. Having some euros and only a few francs left, we had to find dinner. We finally came across a pizza place that would give us a simple basil pizza for 16 francs, dividing it between our euros, francs and our American credit card. That was the cheapest entree we were able to find. Most cafés and restaurants were selling pasta dishes for 25 francs -- keep in mind that the franc is pretty close in value to the American dollar. All the same, I recommend it to a traveller who is looking for the most cosmopolitan city in Europe.
So, now I return to Berlin. Matt and I spent the first week tracking down bikes and then riding all over the city to view apartments. We finally found one -- a sublet that will last for our entire stay here in one of my favorite neighborhoods. It's a studio with a separate bathroom and kitchen for 350€ a month. That's just under $500. I was a little nervous about a studio being large enough for the two of us, but it hasn't been a problem at all. The only problem is the small and narrow kitchen. The cupboards have glass doors and there is hardly any room to open them without smacking one another in the head. We have broken a few glasses only because there just isn't enough room to stand AND cook AND open the refrigerator. Our subletter moved in with her boyfriend and took most of her furniture, leaving behind a mattress, a table, two chairs, a clothes-drying rack, and some dishes. Our first night we made an Ikea run and found dishes, pillows and more for only 20€. We found a large wooden pallet at the Turkish grocery store next door and have used it to lift our mattress off the ground. Three weeks later, I still need to find a pillowcase that fits my extra-large square pillow. More than one coffee mug would be nice, as well.
And for those who want to know where to find a bike in Berlin -- we had luck at a shop near Treptower Park. Two warehouse-style rooms of used bikes. We bargained the price, as we were buying two bikes. It seems a little suspect, but if you give him your passport then you can ride all the bikes down the street. He also gives a receipt -- so the transaction is not schwarz. At first we actually bought a bike off of Craig's List -- as is usually recommended -- but it turned out to be a scrap bike. Fortunately, we were able to sell it off (again, Craig's List) to someone interested in bicycle maintenance.
I gave Matt the grand city tour that first week. We have been to a couple of gallery openings, free museum nights. Anything and everything free and/or very inexpensive. Not many nights out. Not many cafe or restaurant visits, today being an exception. We cook all our meals at home (still going vegetarian, having eaten meat only seven or eight times within the past three months). I have taken over as the primary cook and expanded our recipe repertoire to include Thai, Japanese and Middle Eastern in addition to the usual Indian fare. Matt still prepares the best burrito-style wraps. After dinner every night, we take a walk around the neighborhood, sometimes stopping for ice cream near the Admiralbrücke to watch the papadum salesman harass the young people sipping beers along the canal. One of the most memorable days for both of us was the day of the Mediaspree demonstration.
The Spree is the river that divides Berlin in two. In the SE of central Berlin, there are two neighborhoods (technically one, joined by the Oberbaumbrücke): Friedrichshain and Kreuzberg. Both are known for housing leftists and artists -- you know, lesbians and vegans. As a result, squatter villages, cultural co-ops, bars and arthouses have been built up along the river. And so there is a very creative and liberal atmosphere that makes Berlin so darn lovable to someone like myself.
The Man -- the local administration, the corporate world, etc -- has decided to sell off this land to developers. They call the project MediaSpree. The idea is to build large office buildings to house marketing and media companies (that would, somewhat ironically, employ creative, young people. Or that would recruit them to the dark side, depending on precisely which side you're on). The problem is that this would destroy the DIY-scene that has been there for the past decade (or even longer).
So the alternative force did what they do best and created a counter-movement. The climax of their protests was the MegaSpree demonstration. Three separate parades started in different parts of Friedrichshain and Kreuzberg. Each parade had floats, performers and people from every possible subculture out in the streets. Many in costumes. The roads were blocked and the three parades met in front of the city council. It was a peaceful demonstration. Fun, in fact. One float had an icy slide for vodka shots coming off the back. Lots of loud music, dancing, people-watching, the whole lot. What we expected to take 45 minutes (the parade didn't have far to go) took at least five hours. We left before it was over.
One of the places that would likely be abolished if the Media Spree contract continues is Kiki Blofeld, a beach club on the Kreuzberg-side of the river. We went there last night to watch an open-air viewing of Coffee and Cigarettes. About thirty of us piled on top of wooden pallets and blankets and the weather was kind enough to cooperate. The vocal track of the movie was often interrupted by the roar of the nearby S-bahn, a tourist boat on its final loop or electronica coming from another riverside club. Despite the movie's premise (in my opinion) falling flat, the evening made for a very romantic and memorable experience.
Perhaps what made the experience even sweeter was that one of the 30 attendees was carrying a very cool-looking totebag -- a very cool-looking totebag that, as it so happens, I designed. Yes, that's right. Matt and I got sick of being poor and took matters into our own hands by becoming graphic designers. Last week we stayed in the apartment almost all day everyday working on our designs. We found a local screen-printing shop to work with and ordered a whole bunch of cotton-canvas totebags. This past weekend we had a go at selling them in the fleamarket -- and it was a success. We won't become millionaires anytime soon, but we should be able to cover our living expenses while we are here. This self-sufficiency gives both of us -- me, especially -- great satisfaction. And I've been wanting to start a screen-printing venture for years but never had the financial backing (or the guts) to go through with it. Finally, one of my creative efforts reached completion and actually transformed into a finished (consumable) product. To see people on the street wearing my designs -- oh wow. Or to have them buy the bags for friends and then distribute them all over Europe. It feels wonderful, and most importantly, revives my latent creativity by giving me a great confidence booster. Whoever thought that such a simple idea and a bit of effort could give so much back.
Good for you!!
I hope you are including a little tag with your name(s). Send me a picture. How about a picture of somebody wearing it on the street. I am soo proud!